A trip to central and southern Okinawa with our 18-month-old!
We travelled to Okinawa as a family in April.
Counting from my childhood, I have visited Okinawa more than ten times, but this was my first time going in April.
Here is why we chose April:
- It is before the rainy season starts, so the humidity is lower and the weather is comfortable.
- The sea can feel a little chilly for swimming, but our child is still small, so being in the water was not the main focus.
- It falls between the spring holidays and Golden Week, so prices are generally lower and the tourist spots are less crowded.
We stayed for seven days, and it was not too hot, the number of tourists was moderate, and we hardly had to queue anywhere. I felt it was a great season to visit Okinawa with a small child.
In this article, I will introduce local sightseeing spots and parks where you can play with your child!
- A trip to central and southern Okinawa with our 18-month-old
- Day 1 – Travelling from Haneda to Naha
- Day 2 – Sightseeing around the Katsuren Peninsula
- Day 3 – Exploring Shurijo Castle Park
- [Day 4] Visiting the Okinawa Prefectural Museum (“Oki-Mu”)
- [Day 5] Exploring Central Okinawa
- [Day 6] Visiting the Okinawa Peace Memorial Park
- [Day 7] Travelling from Naha Back to Haneda
- Related Articles
A trip to central and southern Okinawa with our 18-month-old
To reduce the strain of getting around, we chose to stay at a hotel close to Naha Airport.
Since our child is not yet old enough to swim in the sea, our trip mainly involved visiting cultural facilities in central and southern Okinawa and playing at beaches and parks.
Here is our rough itinerary:
Day 1 Haneda ⇒ Naha ⇒ Itoman
⇩
Day 2 Sightseeing around the Katsuren Peninsula
⇩
Day 3 Exploring Shurijo Castle Park
⇩
Day 4 Visiting the Okinawa Prefectural Museum (“Okimyu”)
⇩
Day 5 Sightseeing in central Okinawa
⇩
Day 6 Visiting the Okinawa Peace Memorial Park
⇩
Day 7 Itoman ⇒ Naha ⇒ Haneda
Let us take a closer look at each day!
Day 1 – Travelling from Haneda to Naha
When you have a small child, travelling itself can be quite a challenge, right?
It takes about an hour and a half by train from our home to Haneda Airport, but we managed by giving our child baby food and snacks on the way, and letting them look out of the window at the passing scenery.
Nursing room at the airport
Once we arrived at the airport, we first got our child ready for the flight by changing diapers, wiping hands and mouth, and changing clothes.
By the way, the nursing rooms at Haneda Airport were very well equipped, so I would like to introduce them here.
This is the nursing room located in the departure lobby at Haneda Airport.
My first impression was, “It’s new and spotless!”
It is well equipped with a microwave, hot water dispenser and other useful facilities.
Here are the changing tables and bins for used diapers.
This is the breastfeeding area.
There are also child-sized chairs and a vending machine for diapers (although the sizes are limited).
Checking in at Haneda Airport
We checked in at the Special Assistance counter.
If you are checking in a stroller, they will wrap it in a plastic cover and issue your child’s ticket, so it is very convenient to check in here.
There is also a stroller rental service, so you can still get around easily after your own stroller has been checked in.
Kids’ play area (after security)
After passing through security, we took our child to the kids’ play area.
If they can play and tire themselves out here, it really helps because they are more likely to sleep on the plane.
There are mats on the floor, so adults can also sit down and relax.
Checking in at the hotel
After arriving at Naha Airport, we picked up our rental car and headed to the hotel.
For this trip, we stayed at Southern Beach Hotel & Resort Okinawa in Itoman City!
It is a large resort hotel located about 20 minutes by car from Naha Airport.
It has a kids’ room and plenty of children’s amenities, so I can definitely recommend it for trips with small children.
For more details, please see this article.
Bibi Beach Itoman
It is not a private beach, but there is a public beach right in front of the hotel.
“When you come to Okinawa, you want to see the beautiful sea first!”
So, while it was still light, we headed down to the beach.
This is “Bibi Beach”, located in front of the hotel.
There is a fee for using the car park, but walking access is free.
Looking at the white sand and blue sea really made it sink in that we had arrived in Okinawa.
There was also a grassy area with playground equipment, but unfortunately most of it was out of service due to damage (at the time of our visit in May 2023).
Day 2 – Sightseeing around the Katsuren Peninsula
The weather was good on the second day, so we headed to the Katsuren Peninsula, an area with the Kaichu-doro sea road and beautiful beaches.
There are beaches in the south as well; however, if you want to enjoy snorkelling or swim in a very clear sea, you need to travel a certain distance away from the central area.
Alternatively, it can sometimes be faster to head straight to one of the remote islands, such as Tokashiki Island.
Just for your reference.
Oodomari Beach
This is a paid beach on Ikei Island.
Including access to the car park, changing rooms and showers, the fees are:
- 500 yen per adult
- 300 yen per child
The water is incredibly clear.
Compared with Bibi Beach that we visited the day before, this beach is on another level in terms of clarity.
The sky was hazy due to yellow dust, but the waves were gentle and it was a very quiet beach.
Some people were having picnics on the beach, while others enjoyed snorkelling.
Please note that there is no natural shade on the beach, so if you plan to stay for a long time, you will need to rent a tent or bring your own parasol.
Even if you bring your own shade, there is a “bring-your-own” fee, so it may actually be easier just to rent on site.
For details, please check the beach’s official website:
[Official] Oodomari Beach | Top
Here is the location of Oodomari Beach.
Kafu Banta
On Miyagi Island, just across the Kaichu-doro sea road, there is a stunning viewpoint called “Kafu Banta”!
It is located within the grounds of the “Nuchi-maa-su Salt Factory”, and from the cliff you can enjoy a sweeping view of the beautifully gradated sea.
From the cliff you can see all the way to “AJ Resort Island” at the tip of Ikei Island.
On the second floor of the Nuchi-maa-su Salt Factory, you will find “Café Takahanari”.
You can enjoy dishes and sweets that make full use of Okinawan ingredients!
The terrace seats are airy and feel wonderful.
This is the “Kafu Parfait”.
It is a salted soft-serve ice cream topped with Okinawan zenzai (sweet red beans) and brown sugar syrup!
This is the “Umi-sora Shio Soft” (sea-and-sky salt soft-serve).
It was refreshing and delicious!
This is the “Chilled Okinawa Soba”.
Perfect for hot weather!
There were also other dishes on the menu, such as taco rice and curry.
For more details, please see the official website:
[Official] Nuchi-maa-su – “Miracle sea salt” rich in Okinawan sea minerals
Here is the location of Kafu Banta.
Amawari Park and Katsuren Castle Ruins
Amawari Park
This is a new facility that opened in 2021.
Amawari (阿麻和利) was the 10th lord (aji) of Katsuren Castle. Through overseas trade he gained power and was loved by the people of his time.
Amawari Park is a museum where you can see exhibitions about Amawari and learn about the history and culture of the Katsuren Castle ruins, which are registered as a World Heritage Site.
In particular, the live theatre with a large screen tells Amawari’s story in anime form, so even if you know nothing beforehand, it is easy to follow and it makes visiting the Katsuren Castle ruins even more enjoyable.
This is the live theatre.
Around the live theatre there are also various exhibits about Amawari and Katsuren Castle.
This is a diorama recreating Katsuren Castle as it once was.
Here you can see an illustration of Amawari and an explanation of the historical background.
Katsuren Castle Ruins (World Heritage Site)
The Katsuren Castle ruins are located across the road from Amawari Park.
From the entrance up to near the castle ruins, you can ride an electric cart, but from there to the top you need to climb stairs.
Some sections underfoot are uneven, so I recommend wearing shoes rather than sandals.
There are flat grassy sections along the way, so we sometimes let our child walk there as we made our way up to the top.
Here is the location of Amawari Park.
Day 3 – Exploring Shurijo Castle Park
The weather was fine again on the third day, so we decided to stroll around Shurijo Castle Park.
Shurijo Castle Park
Unfortunately, the main hall of Shurijo Castle was destroyed in a fire in 2019, so it was still under reconstruction when we visited.
It was a pity that we could not see the main hall, but there are still many other highlights around Shurijo Castle Park.
At the same time, because the main hall was gone, we were able to take our time at spots we might otherwise have just walked past, which turned out to be a really interesting experience.
This is Sonohyan-utaki Ishimon stone gate (園比屋武御嶽石門)
This was the royal prayer site of the Ryukyu Kingdom.
The stone gate corresponds to what would be the main sanctuary in a Shinto shrine, but there is no hall equivalent to a main building; instead, the forest behind the gate itself is regarded as sacred.
This is Kankai-mon Gate (歓会門)
This is the first main gate leading into the castle grounds, and “Kankai” means “welcome”.
Envoys from the Chinese emperor were often received at Shurijo Castle, and the gate is said to have been named in the sense of welcoming such honoured guests.
This is Ryūhi Spring (龍樋)
It is named after the spring water that once flowed from the dragon’s mouth, and this water was used as drinking water in the royal palace.
The dragon sculpture itself was brought from China in 1523.
This is Zuisen-mon Gate (瑞泉門)
The name comes from the water of Ryūhi, which was praised as a “zuisen” – a fine and auspicious spring.
Another distinctive feature is the watchtower-like structure built on top of the paired stone gate.
As you can see, there are plenty of things to see just along the route leading up to the main hall, so you can still thoroughly enjoy your visit even if you cannot see the main building itself!
Ryukyuan Restaurant Suimui
Inside the information centre “Shurimori-kan” there is a restaurant called Suimui.
They serve original Ryukyuan dishes created for Shurijo Castle.
Since we were there, we tried the “Imperial Miso Oboro Tofu Set”, once favoured by the Ryukyuan royal family, and the “Sakuna (longevity herb) soba set” made with Shurijo Castle’s original noodles!
Check out the Ryukyuan dishes!
Nishizaki Shinsui Park
Near our hotel (Southern Beach Hotel & Resort Okinawa) there was a park with a long slide, so we went to check it out.
Our child had spent most of the Shurijo Castle visit sitting in the stroller, so we let them play here until dinnertime.
Here is where Nishizaki Shinsui Park is located
[Day 4] Visiting the Okinawa Prefectural Museum (“Oki-Mu”)
The weather was not very good this day.
So we first played with our child in the indoor pool and did some laundry at the coin laundry, then around early afternoon we headed out to the Okinawa Prefectural Museum, nicknamed “Oki-Mu”.
Okinawa Prefectural Museum (Oki-Mu)
Oki-Mu is a museum with exhibits on the history, nature and culture of the Ryukyu Islands and Okinawa, and it is a place you can enjoy even when the weather is bad.
This is a model of a tribute ship (shinkōsen) used in missions to China during the Ryukyu Kingdom era.
The displays are arranged alongside timelines of Japanese and Chinese history like this.
It is quite fun to read while comparing what you see with the Japanese history you learned at school.
Here is where the Okinawa Prefectural Museum (Oki-Mu) is located
As a side note, if you read 本音で語る沖縄史（新潮文庫） before your trip, it will deepen your knowledge of Ryukyu and Okinawa.
Most of the Japanese history we learn in school is “history from the perspective of Japan”, not “history from the perspective of Ryukyu and Okinawa”.
In this book you can learn about things such as power struggles within the Ryukyu Kingdom and how assimilation into mainland Japan looked from the Okinawan side – topics that rarely appear in school textbooks.
It is a highly recommended read if you are planning to visit Oki-Mu or Shurijo Castle!
Local Fast Food in Okinawa
Okinawa has a local hamburger chain called “A&W”.
We made a quick stop at A&W on our way to Oki-Mu!
沖縄ローカルのハンバーガーショップ『A&W』🍔
— TraBlog (@TProak) 2023年4月20日
観光の合間にサクッと済ませたい❗️
でも沖縄感も味わいたい❗️
そんな時にもおすすめのフ... at A&W_糸満店 https://t.co/IlmIZhNatu #miil
The chain was born during the American occupation, and you can easily enjoy classic American-style flavours there.
For more details, please see the article below.
Even If It Rains
VELTRA offers a variety of activities and tours in Okinawa that are not affected by the weather.
If you are thinking, “I still want to make the most of Okinawa even when the weather is bad!”, it is worth checking out.
Click here
Okinawa tours & optional activities booking | VELTRA
[Day 5] Exploring Central Okinawa
The weather was not great again on this day, so we decided to visit Yuntanza Museum and the Okinawa City Postwar Cultural Museum, both located in central Okinawa.
Yuntanza Museum
This museum has exhibits on the history of Ryukyu and Yomitan, as well as displays related to Zakimi Castle.
This is a diorama explaining the structure of Zakimi Castle ruins
This is a diorama reproducing “kamekō-baka”, one type of traditional Okinawan tomb
You can even step inside the tomb model.
This is a diorama of a traditional Okinawan house
You can take off your shoes and go inside.
There are also recreated scenes showing the Battle of Okinawa in Yomitan and how local residents sheltered in caves called “gama”.
There were also exhibits on “Okinawan wind-burial customs” and “Yomitan’s archaeological sites”.
There is even an observation deck, and on a clear day you can apparently see Shurijo Castle and Katsuren Castle ruins.
Too bad the weather did not cooperate this time – something to look forward to on our next visit!
Here is where Yuntanza Museum is located
Lunch on Kadena Air Base?!
We had plenty of time, so we went to a restaurant called “SEASIDE AT KADENA MARINA”, located inside the facilities of Kadena Air Base.
Here you can enjoy authentic American-style steaks and hamburgers!
Although it is technically on the base, the restaurant is in an area that civilians can enter freely, so you do not need to worry about security checks and the like.
リブアイステーキ@Seaside AT KADENA MARINA
— TraBlog (@TProak) 2023年4月21日
嘉手納基地の中にあるステーキ屋🥩
本番アメリカンのステーキを味わえま... at KADENA_MARINA_Seasi... https://t.co/SUkmn8rw0z #miil
It is also a great place if you would like the unique experience of dining on a U.S. military base.
For more details, please see the article below.
Okinawa City Postwar Cultural Museum
This museum has exhibits about postwar life in Okinawa City, and admission is free (as of May 2023).
Unfortunately, almost all of the exhibits are “no photography”, so all I have is a photo of the entrance. However, there were many interesting displays about everyday life in Okinawa after the war and the history of the local entertainment districts.
Because admission is free, it is also a good option for sightseeing on a rainy day!
Website (in Japanese) here
Okinawa City Postwar Cultural Museum “Hi-Street” | Okinawa City Hall
Here is where the Okinawa City Postwar Cultural Museum is located
[Day 6] Visiting the Okinawa Peace Memorial Park
The weather improved a little, so we decided to visit the Okinawa Peace Memorial Park and the John Manjiro Landing Site.
Okinawa Peace Memorial Park
The playground area at the Peace Memorial Park is extremely well equipped.
The weather had been bad for about two days, so our child had a lot of pent-up energy – we ended up staying and playing here for about two hours.
Here is one of the playground structures
Here is another playground structure
This zone is for children aged 3 and under
There is a sandbox and equipment for little ones to pull up on and stand.
This zone is for children aged 6 to 12
Even adults would probably find it fun!
Here is where the Okinawa Peace Memorial Park is located
Lunch at “Inamine”
After visiting the Peace Memorial Park, we headed to “Reishimono Senmonten & Restaurant Inamine” in Itoman for a late lunch.
It is featured in the guidebook 地球の歩き方 沖縄2023～2024.
The book mainly introduces sweets such as Okinawa zenzai, but the set meals like Okinawa soba and goya champuru are top notch as well.
The restaurant is only about a 10-minute drive from the Himeyuri Monument, so it is a great place to stop when sightseeing in southern Okinawa.
For more details, please see the article below.
John Manjiro Landing Site
After our late lunch at “Inamine”, we headed to the John Manjiro Landing Site.
I had read a book called 漂巽紀畧 全現代語訳 (講談社学術文庫) and learned about John Manjiro’s dramatic life, so this was a place I had long wanted to visit.
This is the statue of John Manjiro at the landing site
It is said that his fingertip points towards his hometown, Tosashimizu City.
There are information panels about John Manjiro, so even if you come with zero prior knowledge, you can still enjoy learning about his story.
Next to the site is Ōdo Beach (also known as John Man Beach / Ōdo-hama Beach), where children can play in the sand.
Here is the John Manjiro Landing Site
[Day 7] Travelling from Naha Back to Haneda
This was our final day.
After checking out of the hotel, we headed to Kokusai-dori to buy souvenirs before going to the airport.
Kokusai-dori (International Street)
On Kokusai-dori we stopped by Okashi Goten.
The most popular item is their purple sweet potato tarts, but I also recommend the “Imo-imo tarts”, which combine purple sweet potato with Akane sweet potato.
They sell many other delicious-looking sweets, so make sure you leave plenty of time for shopping!
At the Kokusai-dori Matsuo branch, the second floor is a café where you can enjoy Okinawan dishes and purple sweet potato desserts.
Watch Out for Sold-Out Stock
The shops along Kokusai-dori can sell out when school trip groups arrive, and there is also a limit on the number of purple sweet potato tarts sold per day.
If you definitely want to buy some as souvenirs, try to go soon after the shop opens.
ちなみに人気の紅芋タルト（御菓子御殿）は、在庫が品薄なようで1日の販売数が限られています。
— TraBlog (@TProak) 2023年4月23日
特に人出が多い国際通り沿いの店舗では午前中に売り切れていました。
修学旅行生が来たりすると一気に売り切れたりするので、絶対に欲しい人は開店直後を狙いましょう。#紅芋タルト #御菓子御殿 #沖縄
About Parking
There is no parking lot at Okashi Goten, so if you come by car you will need to park in a nearby pay car park.
Since it is a central area there are plenty of car parks, but the Kenmin Hiroba Underground Car Park is conveniently located near the entrance to Kokusai-dori.
Here is where the Kenmin Hiroba Underground Car Park is located
Checking In at Naha Airport
As at Haneda Airport, we checked in at the Special Assistance counter.
If you are checking in a stroller, they will wrap it in a plastic bag and issue a ticket for your child, so it is convenient to use this counter.
There is also a stroller rental service, so you can still get around comfortably after checking yours in.
By the way, there is also a kids’ area at Naha Airport.
We did not have time to visit, but it looks like the perfect spot to let children play before the flight!
[Naha Airport Passenger Terminal Building]
Notice of Kids’ Space in Naha Airport Domestic Area (Japanese)
That brings us to the end of this trip report.
Thank you so much for reading all the way to the end!
Start planning your own trip to Okinawa!
RAKU Pack – Domestic package tours (flight + hotel) | Rakuten Travel (Japanese)
Search for activities and tours that are perfect for rainy days!
Okinawa tours & optional activities booking | VELTRA
Related Articles
I have written separate posts about the restaurants and eateries we visited on this trip!
*** Recommended articles ***
